Jack & Martine's fun & discovery of France's Dordogne Valley
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Jack & Martine's fun & discovery of France's Dordogne Valley
St-Céré
THE CHARMING 9th CENTURY MARKET TOWN of St-Céré is less than 5 miles east of Rancho Escargot. Built along the Bave River it was defended by a series of castles, especially St-Laurent-les-Tours whose two towers look down a steep hill onto the village’s old tiled rooftops.
(St-Laurent-les-Tours 12th & 13th century towers overlooking St-Céré)
St-Céré owes its name to the martyrdom of Ste Spérie in 780. Born the daughter to the then lord of St-Laurent, Sérenus, Spérie pledged herself to God at a very early age and when she refused a pre-arranged marriage to a local nobleman was beheaded by her own brother and buried on the riverbank. Later, a chapel was erected directly over her grave which became a very important stop for pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela and her crypt is still accessible albeit just one day a year.
Taking a coffee in the place du Mercadial surrounded by its middle-age houses or walking through the twisting village streets soaking up the history is a pleasure not to be missed.
(place du Mercadial) (River Bave running through St-Céré)
By the early 15th century St-Céré became a very important crossroads for trading merchants from Asia, Africa and Northern Europe and that tradition continues today with a very large open market here on every 1st & 3rd Wednesdays of the month ... we'll see you there!à bientôt, Jack
Voyage at the Gouffre de Padirac
MANY OF OUR CLOSE FRIENDS marveled at how Martine & I spent 17 years living aboard, our sailing yacht, Walkabout (some thought we were crazy … but hey, we loved the lifestyle!). Over the years our passion for being on the water gave us the opportunity to experience all sorts of nautical adventures around the world from Antarctica to the South Pacific.
But … the possibility of a little voyage down a river deep underground was something never imagined by us before moving into this special region of southwestern France. Just a little over a mile from Rancho Escargot is probably one of the most unique boating experiences we’ve ever encountered. The Gouffre de Padirac provides a spectacular entrance to a network of rivers about 300 feet underground and the opportunity to take a little cruise of about 1.5 nautical miles through a beautiful grotto and cave network.
The view up from the base of the Gouffre's main chasm gives you the sense that you are begining a journey to the center of the earth. Then, you continue to decend another 100 feet underground to the boats below!
Here is a link to more information about this incredible natural wonder: Gouffre de Padirac 360˚
It's certainly a must do when visiting us. Bon Voyage! à bientôt, Jack
CLICK HERE FOR 'RANCHO ESCARGOT' HOLIDAYS!
Shop @ Rancho Escargot!
WE HAVE HAD A LOT OF COMPLIMENTS about the Rancho Escargot logo! So many, in fact, we thought it was time to open a little corner store:
We also know it will be difficult to compete with our neighbors on the block but we hope you will check the fun offerings at our new Rancho Escargot Art2Wear shop and for informative books on our area, French cuisine treats & music please visit ...
Rancho Escargot's Little French Marketplace .
Our entire team has been working on forecasting results for 2008 ...
(Frankly, I think we'll have to count on you for our success! à bientôt, Jack!)
VISIT Rancho Escargot in 2008!
WELL JUST BECAUSE we are one of the smallest B&B operators in southwestern France it doesn't mean we should not strive to have the 'best' one bedroom suite available in the Haut-Quercy!
You will notice on our blog's sidebar - just below the calendar there is a new link! Rancho Escargot B&B ... oui, please expect shameless marketing & promotion of our "Escargot Suite" to continue throughout 2008! Our new little B&B site features; more photos of the Escargot Suite, a local weather link, and for Escargot Group Fun - how we can assist your 'group needs' with suitable accommodations & fun.
Please remember with just the "Escargot Suite" in our room inventory ... it's very easy for us to be fully booked! We hope to see you as guests in 2008. SO BOOK EARLY! à bientôt, Jack!
S&M ... MOST FOWL!
S&M ... MOST FOWL! Oui, from a culinary perspective some consider Foie Gras the byproduct of a demonic relationship between sadistic farmer and masochistic duck or goose … but this is how one of the greatest delicacies of France is created:
the gentle loving French Way ... and the alternate perception
Foie gras is one of the most popular and well-known delicacies in French cuisine and its flavor is described as rich, buttery, and delicate, unlike that of a regular duck or goose liver. Foie gras can be sold whole, or prepared into mousse, parfait, or pâté, and is typically served on toast or as an accompaniment to another food items such as filet or fowl.
The liver of a duck or a goose is specially fattened by 'gavage', a technique used by ancient Egyptians and dating as far back as 2500BC, when they began keeping birds for food and deliberately fattened the birds through force-feeding.
In America, the Foie Gras debate is raging! Here are two opposing perspectives from Chicago where its sale is now prohibited:
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“Our culture does not condone the torture of innocent and defenseless creatures.” Joe Moore - Chicago Alderman
“Foie gras has been around since the age of cuisine. Some animals are raised for food. They’re raised to die.” Rick Tramanto - Chef at “Tru” in ChicagoWell, who do you agree with - the Alderman or the Chef? Check out “The Truth about Foie Gras” before you decide.
Today, our little corner of Southwest France in the Haut-Quercy is considered Foie Gras ground zero! Trust me when I tell you that this whole debate against it … is not all it is quacked up to be! à bientôt, Jack!
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Rocamadour
A 20 minute drive from Rancho Escargot takes you to the nearly vertical
Rocamadour Zacchaeus Chapelle Notre-Dame
Toward the end of the 12 century, Henri Courtmantel, aka: "Young King Henry", son of King Henry II of England & Eleanor of Aquitaine (and the old brother of Richard the Lionheart), plundered Rocamadour and stole its most prized relics including; a small statue known as the 'Black Virgin' and Rowland’s famous sword, Durandal. Ultimately, under pressure from King Henry II, he returned these relics to Rocamadour and they can be seen there today.
Over the centuries thousands have crawled up the 216 stone steps of Rocamadour's Grand Escalier on their knees to seek forgiveness & cures or even more harshly ... as penance for petty crimes committed.
(Steve, Bobbi & Martine seeking forgiveness of sins!)Rocamadour is a must on any itinerary into the Haut-Quercy!
à bientôt, Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Bonne Année
Bonne Année 2008!
May all your troubles during the coming year be as short as your New Year's resolutions.
So stir the eggnog, lift the toddy, Bonne Année everybody!
We welcome your visit in 2008! à bientôt, Martine et Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Joyeux Noël
MERRY CHRISTMAS et Joyeux Noël to you all. We are on the eve of Christmas here with a wonderful blue sky & white frost dusting the grounds & woods of Rancho Escargot. The fire is blazing in the fireplace, Martine is baking yet another batch of Christmas cookies and I’m reflecting on both friends afar and Xmas’s past.
Looking at old photos, I came across some that Martine took on her expedition aboard the sailing vessel "Dione" to
Here are a few images from that Christmas at the bottom of the World ...
Martine named this iceberg - Escargot ... what foresight! à bientôt, Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Le sanglier ... Wild Boar
IN MY YOUTH, growing up on the Big Island of Hawaii, hunting wild boar was a right of passage and that boar coming off the spit or right out of our imu was oh, so ono!
Now, I’ve lost my taste for hunting any type of wild game but find myself, once again, surrounded by forests full of wild boar & hunters. It’s the middle of our boar hunting season in the Haut-Quercy and every weekend Martine and I awake to the bark of the hunting dogs in pursuit & reports of the hunters rifles around Rancho Escargot.
Hunting sanglier (wild boar) here dates back literally thousands of years and I think it would be difficult for me to communicate my abhorrence for hunting wild game to my neighbors considering they know all too well how much I continue to love eating it!
Life is so full of conundrums! Mon deiu ... Bon Appetite! a bientôt! Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Sunday lunch @ Chasse des Fieux
THIS PAST DIMANCHE we organized an Expat luncheon at our neighbors Kathy & Jean-Pierre's restaurant - Chasse des Fieux. The restaurant is located adjacent to their private hunting reserve and only minutes from our home. It's a favorite of both the locals & hunters and only open during the hunting season of October- February.
After a 11:45 rendezvous for a glass of wine (or Martine's homemade "Vins des Pêche") a total of 24 friends headed off for a great meal and then an afternoon walk to the nearby Dolmens.
In the Haut-Quercy, the concept of a quick or light lunch is very elusive ... isn't that great? a bientôt! Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Uxellodunum & Julius Caesar
IT never ceases to amaze me how rich the history of our little area is ... in 51BC, Julius Caesar finally defeated the Gaul’s, just a 15 minute drive from Rancho Escargot, on a high plateau above the Dordogne River known as Uxellodunum (modern day, Puy D’Issolu).
(Gaul's @ Uxelodunum) (Gaul's surrender at the feet of Julius Caesar)
The siege was a long one as the
Well, the life around here now is certainly far more civilized ... and I'll give you my hand on that! a bientôt! Jack
CLICK HERE for RANCHO ESCARGOT reservations and information
Sunday Lunch – Espédaillac
OUR Sunday lunch was with neighbors, Caroline & Ray, at Auberge Beauville. The current proprietors took over the auberge in 1930 and the family has served exactly the same menu ... every Sunday since. Hey, if it works don’t mess with it! Here is what we have:Dimanche midi: menu à 18.00€
Potage
Charcuterie
Coq au vin ou Poule farce
Gigot d’ agneau à la broche
Pommes de terres sautés et haricots blances
Plateau de fromages avec cabécou
Dessert: Pastis ou île flottante
Pichet de Vin et Café compris
The leg of lamb (Gigot) ... is cooked on a spit in the fireplace! The pichet (pitcher) of outstanding local wine ... never goes empty! And we ... just, never stop eating!
All for 18.00€ ??? well, just remember that they don’t accept credit cards ... forgot your cash? OK! time to help with the dishes!!!
a bientôt! JackCLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot reservations and information
Golfing at Château de Montal
a fun 9 holes of golf, we’ve got the Château de Montal just 10 minutes from Rancho Escargot ... a little known fact: the French Résistance had the Mona Lisa and other treasures of the Louvre hidden here throughout WWII!
Château de Montal's story goes that Jeanne de Montal started transforming the original medieval fortress into a Renaissance palace as a gift for her son, Robert, who was off in
Regretfully, only his body came back and she had the window blocked up and beneath it carved ...
“Hope No More”, which is also a befitting epitaph for my golf game! a bientôt! Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot reservations and information
Summer reflections (été) 2007
AUTUMNE has definitely arrived in the Haut-Quercy, yesterday morning it was -2c ... yep, that’s 29°F! oui, très froid!!! Over my morning café, very comfortable in my L.L.Bean polar, I began to reflect on our summer just past. The weather? well, it was marginal at best ... but été was still way too much fun!
Nice job ... Mr. President
UN MOMENT! I'm going to take a little break from espousing the beauty and wonders of the Haut-Quercy. Our hard earned US dollars are tanking in the international currency markets and, just this morning, it was at USD 1.429 against the Euro and still falling faster than a "Base-Jumper" off the Eiffel Tower by all analyst accounts.
(oups ... un billet "0" dollar!) 
Merci, mon President! tres bien!!! with Katrina you blew it! with Iraq, you’re still bombing it with billions of dollars and innocent blood, yet still no solutions are in-sight! with your banking & Federal Reserve buddies, you’ve let the sub-prime & general housing markets flush themselves right down the toilet! and what can be said about all of your in-roads into education and healthcare reforms? or the national rise in urban crime? It has become apparent to me that the only “family values” or pocket books you care about are those of your cronies.
Merci, mon President! tres bien!!! with Katrina you blew it! with Iraq, you’re still bombing it with billions of dollars and innocent blood, yet still no solutions are in-sight! with your banking & Federal Reserve buddies, you’ve let the sub-prime & general housing markets flush themselves right down the toilet! and what can be said about all of your in-roads into education and healthcare reforms? or the national rise in urban crime? It has become apparent to me that the only “family values” or pocket books you care about are those of your cronies.
Aren't we all fortunate to have you in the driver's seat! 
You made it easy for Martine and I to see it was time to get out of Dodge. But we never anticipated the real havoc you could instill on the American dollars we depend on ... now worth less than a Canadian? Again, nice work! I guess, we should not be surprised, it appears there is no end to your business acumen or management skills.
The Big Mac Index (and this is a new 'index' to us!) indicates you've got America's inflation on the rise ... hey! don't forget the once mighty & now anorexic buck stops on your desk.
Now that we are residents of the Euro Zone there is no gravity for our €uro currency thanks to you, just the ever shrinking spending power with the US dollars we exchange. We just pray we won't have to give up excellent Bordeaux and Foie Gras for a Coke & Big Mac. Zut Alors! Jack
PS-Rancho Escargot is still affordable in 2008 CLICK HERE for reservations and information
snapshot: Carennac
OVERLOOKING the banks of the Dordogne River and Calypso Island, our village of Carennac is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in all of France.
Carennac dates back to the eleventh century (1050AD) built by Benedictine monks, their priory's coffers grew rich from pilgrims en route to Santiago de Compostela.
The real magic of our village is how you can feel yourself literally propelled back in-time to the Middle Ages ... wandering through the tiny streets with leaning houses and overhanging wooden balconies it’s easy to imagine you’re back in 16th century France.
oui, le "Chabrol"
OUI, le Chabrol ... a twisted tradition in the Haut-Quercy that dates back to the Moyen Age!
It's really all about soup - in the
So, when you've almost completed that delicious bowl of soup, this is where things get a little twisted ...
Just take in hand that bottle of 1949 Château Lafite Rothschild you've been decanting and pour a generous splash into the remainder of your soup; give it a swirl to mix and then ... it's bowls up!
Le Chabrol!!!
Our guests at Rancho Escargot quickly grasped the importance of perpetuating this tradition ...
-- making for very happy travellers! 
chabrol et a bientot! Jack
CLICK HERE for Rancho Escargot 2008 reservations and information
Hang-gliding in the French Alps ... a flashback
FLASHBACK ... 1981, after meeting Martine on the beautiful island Moorea in French Polynesia, we returned to France so I could meet her family. The first place Martine took me was to the southern French Alps, so we could spend some time with her sister Cathy and her boyfriend Phillipe. At the time, Phillipe was a national hang-gliding champion; after our first late night of serious drinking and revelry he suggested we "test" a brand new tandem hang-glider design he had just built ... thinking we would just try it out on a "little" hill, I agreed. Boy, was I in for a surprise! These were pics Martine took of that first flight ... FYI, I'm the American under the baseball cap with the puckered sphincter!
Most beautiful villages in France's Haut Quercy
THE French government has generated a list of 148 villages within the 65 French Departments (Counties) they protect & consider these villages true national treasures.
All of these villages date back to the Middle Ages. Within a 15 to 25 minute drive radius of Rancho Escargot, we have seven! These include: our village of Carennac, Loubressac, Autoire, Curemonte, Rocamadour, Turenne and Collonges-la-Rouge .
In total, eighteen of these plus beaux villages (including; Collonges-la-Rouge, Turenne, Curemonte & Domme not on deailed on the map above) are within an hour drive or less of Rancho Escargot. That's better than 10% of the entire List ... are right here in the Haut Quercy, how cool is that???
Over the next few months, I'll do "spotlight" features on some of these 17 wonderful Medieval Villages for you.
Journey through the most beautiful villages in France
The "most beautiful villages in France" sites are where the country's heritage has been miraculously preserved, havens of culture & architectural treasures to rouse the senses, and bastions of the French art de vivre (art of life). Tradition in these villages is not merely alive but thriving. A tour of the countryside reveals villages spread out like a fan, built against a cliff or encased in a small valley. Others are nestled in the loop of a river, at the foot of grand châteaux or at the bottom of natural gorges. Off the beaten track, safeguarded from urban development and communication highways, 148 small communes across the country, keen to preserve and promote their individual character, have been granted the "most beautiful villages in France" label.
The Plus Beaux Villages de France association was founded in 1982 by Charles Ceyrac, formerly mayor of Collonges-la-Rouge, with the aim of conserving and promoting the heritage of "the most beautiful villages in France". To qualify, villages must meet a number of demanding pre-conditions, set by the association to ensure the label is awarded on the basis of a selection process that is nothing if not rigorous. "In addition to three basic conditions - less than 2,000 inhabitants, two registered or listed sites, and the unanimous agreement of the municipal council - the village must also pursue a policy to preserve its natural heritage that is reflected in its area